Wednesday, July 27, 2022

North Wales Pilgrims Way (Stage 10 Nefyn to Llangwynnad)

Oh dear - slipped again!
 If only I'd seen this  before I set off down  the cliffside. On the OS  map there looked to be  a clear right of way  footpath down to the  beach - Skip and I  would trundle down and  have a pleasant flat  beach run for the first  section of our day's  pilgrimage from Nefyn  westwards. The problem is that this section off coastline is subject to periodic landslips due to the friable nature of the hillside - this photo is from just a few years ago and of course this meant that our long established footpath had been eliminated leaving us scrambling about on a very unstable hillside amidst brambles, etc. Skip was quite discomfited! So back up we went having lost quite some time out of our allotment for the day

Llyn Cliffs!

We managed to drop down onto the next beach and had a pleasant jog along the strand but we were then faced with a climb up to Nefyn Golf Course which must be one of the most exposed courses in Wales. A stiff breeze faced us on the cliff tops and the constant ups and downs as we progressed from inlet to inlet on the narrow paths became somewhat wearing. To add to our troubles a steady fall of rain worked its way through my waterproof top and even Skip lost his usual zip. At our rendezvous some miles further on near Tudweiliog I sat in the car, ate an early lunch and took stock. Vicky very kindly trekked over to the cafe to fetch me a hot cup of tea. Suitably invigorated I decided to press on using the alternative inland route minus Skip. It couldn't get any worse I thought!!

A Picture Postcard Setting!
Porth Towyn is the closest beach to Tudweiliog. I'd been here before but not for 41 years. I'd hitchhiked up in a hot early September following the Isle of Wight Music Festival (highlights included Bob Dylan being booed for his being more electric and less folky than before). I'd been travelling on back roads sleeping at night under hedges in an extra-large fertiliser bag. On arrival I promptly fell asleep on the Towyn beach and woke up with a sore red nose! It certainly wasn't picture postcard weather today as I emerged from the car into the gale and  slogged the last few miles to our AirBnb at Llangwynnad just an hour or so short of the Pilgrims Way endpoint at Aberdaron. We already knew that our ferry to Bardsey Island had been cancelled due to the foul weather so our journey is not yet complete - we fight another day.

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